Sephora’s grade – Ranking retailers on toxic chemicals

Sephora earned a grade of C, scoring 50.25 out of 135 possible points, ranking 15th out of 40 retailers. This represents an improvement over its score of a D last year and was primarily driven by the company’s increased identification of products formulated without chemicals of high concern on its website, its confirmation that its RSL applies globally, its confirmation that it received full ingredient disclosure on private label products, and the steps it is taking towards addressing the chemical safety of brands it sells.

On the positive side, Sephora has an extensive restricted substances list (RSL) for its private-label products, which, according to information provided by the company, includes all but two of the “Hazardous 100+” chemicals identified by Mind the Store. In fact, Sephora’s RSL, which the company states contains more than 1,400 compounds, has been in place for a decade. Sephora also collects a full list of ingredients for its private label products, including, according to the retailer, fragrance ingredients. Unfortunately, Sephora does not make its RSL publicly available, nor does it provide public metrics on the use or reduction of chemicals of concern. Sephora also does not appear to apply restrictions on the use of chemicals in products it sells from other brands, although in 2018 it started a voluntary recognition program for brands that meet a far narrower RSL.

Opportunities for Improvement: In addition to providing more public information about its ongoing efforts to address chemicals of concern in its private-label brands, Sephora can continue to identify opportunities to expand its program to include products made by others sold in its stores, first through disclosure and ultimately with an RSL. The company can increase transparency of ingredients of its private-label brands by disclosing the constituents of fragrances. Sephora should also become a signatory to the Chemical Footprint Project and publicize the results.

Summary of Sephora’s Grade

10 out of 17.5 points

Policy: Adopted a retailer safer chemicals policy

Explanation of Points

Sephora requires the suppliers of its private-label products to comply with a Restricted Substances List (RSL) that, according to the company, includes more than 1,400 items. In 2017, Sephora informed us that this RSL includes all but two substances (octyl methoxycinnamate and cyclopentasiloxane (D5)) that are included in Mind the Store’s “Hazardous 100+” list. The company additionally stated that it has RSLs for both its products and packaging and confirmed to us that it applies globally to its private-label products. Sephora did not identify restrictions on products it sells other than its private label-products, and Sephora has declined to make its RSL publicly available.

Sephora does not have a publicly available Manufacturing Restricted Substance List (MRSL), the policy does not appear to apply to operations, and the company has not set public quantifiable goals for reducing and eliminating chemicals of high concern.

2.5 out of 7.5 points

Oversight: Established management responsibilities and incentives

Explanation of Points

Sephora indicated to us that responsibility for the RSL and chemical safety is assigned to Director, VP, and SVP level executive staff. The retailer additionally informed us that in 2018 they contracted with a consultant to support their product sustainability and chemical management. As a privately held company, Sephora does not have a board of directors, but beyond general supervision of the senior leadership, there is no indication of chief executive or owner level involvement or financial incentives for senior management to implement safer chemicals policies.

This represents a small decline in Sephora’s rating in this category compared to last year because the retailer was awarded partial credit for including responsibilities in relevant job descriptions. Due to the difficulty of assessing that element for every retailer, this criterion was removed from the Retailer Report Card in 2018.

7.5 out of 10 points

Accountability: Ensures supply chain accountability

Explanation of Points

Sephora staff stated to us that they provide training in the RSL requirements, conduct audits of suppliers, and utilizes third-party testing to verify compliance with the RSL for private-label products subject to its policy. Sephora’s parent company, LVMH, also discusses this practice across its brands in its 2017 Environmental Report.

The company did not indicate that it conducts its own testing to ensure supplier conformance with its safer chemicals policy.

7.5 out of 10 points

Disclosure: Requires suppliers to report use of chemicals in products to retailer

Explanation of Points

Sephora informed us that it requires suppliers of its private-label products to disclose to the retailer a complete list of ingredients and known impurities, including all fragrance ingredients.

3 out of 15 points

Action: Reduced or eliminated chemicals of high concern within the last three years

Explanation of Points

Sephora staff provided us with documentation that they have enforced their RSL for their private-label products in recent years and that they added three chemicals to it in 2017 as well as an unspecified additional number in 2018. Although it is unclear the number of impacted products or volumes of chemicals of high concern that may have been reduced, this action has resulted in a reduction in the use of chemicals of high concern in Sephora’s private-label products. They provided us the example that prior to launch this spring, one product was reformulated to remove a synthetic wax that was not compliant.

As discussed further in the Transparency and Continuous Improvement sections, Sephora also launched in 2018 its “Clean at Sephora” program that applies a public BRSL to branded products. As a result of this program, Sephora notes they have added at least 30 products and stopped selling another 12 to meet the criteria. However, since this program is a voluntary recognition of safer products, not action to reduce and eliminate chemicals of concern under a policy, we are not recognizing it with points in this section.

0 out of 10 points

Safer Alternatives: Evaluates safer alternatives, avoids regrettable substitutes

Explanation of Points

While Sephora staff have indicated to us that they participate in industry coalitions that recommend safer alternatives, we are not aware of any requirements they place upon their suppliers to work towards exploring and testing safer alternatives. Additionally, Sephora’s parent company, LVMH, noted in its 2017 Environmental Report that “specific handbooks have also been drawn up by LVMH’s Environment Department in order to help suppliers to eliminate certain sub-stances, and to use alternatives.” Since it is not clear if any of these handbooks were applicable to Sephora, and it is not clear the extent to which alternatives were screened for safety, we are not awarding points in this category.

4 out of 15 points

Transparency: Demonstrates a commitment to transparency and public disclosure

Explanation of Points

While Sephora has a Beyond Restricted Substance List (BRSL) that applies to its private-label products, it does not make this list public, nor has it indicated an intention to do so. However, Sephora has released a BRSL that covers brand-name products voluntarily participating in its “Clean at Sephora” program. This new effort provides additional marketing recognition to brands that voluntarily agree to not use chemicals included in a publically available BRSL. However, since this is only a voluntary program, and not Sephora’s full BRSL or chemical policy, we are awarding this transparency effort half points.

On its website, Sephora has recently added language for its private-label items indicating that they are in compliance with the company’s RSL. Sephora, however, does not appear to encourage or require the disclosure of ingredients in products online or on product packaging beyond that required by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration for cosmetics.

0.75 out of 7.5 points

Chemical Footprint: Evaluates its chemical footprint

Explanation of Points

Sephora indicated to us that the company utilized the CFP survey tool for its private-label brands and explored it with several third-party brands. While the company is not yet a signatory and has not disclosed any results, we are recognizing this step forward with partial credit.

0 out of 7.5 points

Third-party Standards: Promotes credible third party standards for safer products

Explanation of Points

No discernible progress on credible third-party safer chemicals standards going beyond regulatory compliance.

Extra Credit:

0 out of 5 points

Joint Announcement: Public commitment demonstrated through joint announcement

Explanation of Points

No discernible public commitment via joint announcement.

5 out of 15 points

Continuous Improvement: Shows continuous improvement by steadily expanding safer chemicals policy

Explanation of Points

In 2018, Sephora launched its “Clean at Sephora” program, which recognizes products from more than 50 brands that meet a publicly available Beyond Restricted Substances List for either cosmetics or fragrances. While this program is voluntary, it does represent a step towards an expansion of Sephora’s chemical safety program beyond its private label towards other products it sells.

5 out of 5 points

Safer Products: Program to promote safer products in stores and/or on website

Explanation of Points

Sephora’s online listings for its private-label products are clearly labeled as being in compliance with its RSL. Additionally, both online and in-store products that meet the new “Clean at Sephora” requirements are clearly marked with a special label.

5 out of 5 points

Collaboration: Actively participates in collaborative process to promote safer chemicals

Explanation of Points

Sephora participates in the Forum for the Future’s Beauty and Personal Care Products Leadership Group.

0 out of 5 points

Impact Investment: Investing financial resources into independent research into safer alternatives and/or green chemistry solutions

Explanation of Points

Although Sephora does help support industry associations working on chemical and sustainability issues broadly, there is no indication that the company invests significant financial resources specifically into independent research into safer alternatives to chemicals of high concern and/or green chemistry solutions.

Take Action