Macy’s

Policy:Adopted a retailer safer chemicals policy

5 out of 23.5 points

Macy’s 2018 Sustainability Report (published in September 2019) provides details about the company’s approach to chemicals management. The report notes Macy’s has a chemical management goal of continuing “to remove unwanted chemicals and [increasing] transparency of designated private brand product lines.” The report further states: “Macy’s Private Brands is expanding our Chemical Management Program to enhance education and training around chemicals of concern and to provide increased ingredient transparency when appropriate. We will restrict hazardous chemicals that are used in the finished products we sell, as well as the ones used during the manufacturing process. To achieve this, we have developed a two-part approach that will be implemented over the next six years.” Macy’s staff added in 2019 that the company’s current Chemical Management Program for private brands is part of Macy’s “product testing and compliance program and is not public facing,” and that the company is “expanding it by developing an RSL/MRSL and rolling out by family of business.” The company noted that “The policy will apply to all Private Brand products sourced by Macy’s Private Brands, aka Macy’s Merchandising Group, regardless of where they are sold.” Partial credit is awarded to recognize Macy’s steps toward establishing a safer chemicals policy that applies to all locations where private-brand products are sold, although it is not certain that the policy will go beyond regulatory compliance.

According to the sustainability report, this policy includes a timeline for establishing and implementing (a) an RSL covering private-brand apparel, footwear, and home textiles by 2022 and non-apparel categories “beginning in 2024” and (b) an MRSL for private-brand children’s apparel/footwear and home textiles by 2023 and non-apparel product categories “beginning in 2025.” However, the sustainability website implies these RSLs will all be implemented by 2025, rather than the earlier years listed in the report. Staff reported to us that whether the RSL and MRSL will go beyond regulatory requirements is “currently under review and [they] will make appropriate determinations as the program is developed.” Since the RSL and MRSL are under development and it is not certain that the RSL or MRSL will go beyond regulatory compliance, we are awarding partial credit for both of these components.

In a press release from 2011, the company stated: “By the end of 2011, Macy’s will have eliminated the use of all foam packaging (cups, bowls, plates and to-go containers) at its in-store restaurants nationwide.” In 2009, the company had used over 2.7 million foam containers, about half that in 2010, and the number would be zero by the end of 2011. It is not clear if this policy is currently in place, so we are not awarding points for a beyond restricted material list for plastics of environmental health concern (PEHC) at this time.

It does not appear that Macy’s has set public quantifiable goals for reducing and eliminating CHCs (since the details of Macy’s RSL and MRSL are not public yet) and it is not clear if the company safer chemicals policy will apply, as specified in the criteria, to operations or packaging. It is also unclear if the company’s policy will apply to beauty products of environmental justice concern (BPEJC).

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Oversight: Established management responsibilities and incentives

1.25 out of 5 points

According to Macy’s 2018 Sustainability Report, the company established a new Macy’s Inc. Sustainability Working Group that is led by the senior vice president of corporate communications and responsible for implementing the sustainability goals. Separately, the sustainability report references a Product Integrity and Quality Assurance Group that seems to be directly responsible for implementing the chemicals management goals. However, Macy’s has not specifically stated that a member of senior management is responsible for implementing the goals, and the safer chemicals policy is currently under development, so only partial credit is awarded.

Glossary of Terms

Accountability: Ensures supply chain accountability

1.25 out of 15 points

Macy’s 2018 Sustainability Report mentions “Macy’s Private Brands is expanding our Chemical Management Program to enhance education and training around chemicals of concern.” Staff noted to us separately that the training would discuss Macy’s safer chemicals policy or any reporting requirements, to the extent they go beyond regulatory compliance. Partial credit is awarded because it is not certain that the policy will go beyond regulatory compliance and because the training program is under development.

The report also mentions that the Macy’s Product Integrity and Quality Assurance Group “oversees quality and testing programs,” but it does not indicate whether the company plans to conduct routine testing itself or require suppliers to test their products in third-party laboratories and provide results to Macy’s to ensure suppliers comply with the forthcoming RSL or MRSL. According to staff statements in 2019, the company’s existing testing program requires third-party testing but appears to only be used to determine compliance with regulations and the company did not indicate any different plans for the future.

Macy’s has not disclosed that it incorporates its safer chemicals policy that was under development as of 2019 or any reporting requirements in supplier contracts.

Glossary of Terms

Action: Reduced or eliminated chemicals of high concern (CHCs) or plastics of environmental health concern (PEHCs) within the last three years

3 out of 26 points

Macy’s requires its tanning facilities that provide leather for private goods to be certified according to the Leather Working Group by 2021. According to staff, “even a Bronze certification requires a serious and continuous commitment to responsible consumption and elimination of hazardous chemicals by the tanning facility. As many of these tanning facilities are in developing countries, the reductions go well past what is required by local governments.” Just before the company told suppliers of this requirement in February 2018, 33% of the company’s leather tanneries were certified; as of September 2019, 71% were certified to at least the Bronze level.

More than five years ago, in October 2015, Macy’s committed to eliminating flame retardants in the furniture the company sold. Macy’s stated: “If we do identify a vendor that is still applying the old flame retardants [to furniture], we will be requiring them to cease doing so immediately.”

Macy’s has not publicly documented progress on reducing chemicals of high concern in beauty products of environmental justice concern.

Glossary of Terms

Safer Alternatives: Evaluates safer alternatives, avoids regrettable substitutes

1 out of 16 points

The company notes in its 2018 Sustainability Report that it will “restrict hazardous chemicals that are used in the finished products we sell, as well as the ones used during the manufacturing process” but does not explicitly state that it will encourage suppliers to replace these chemicals with affirmatively safer alternatives (as opposed to alternatives of unknown toxicity). Staff separately confirmed to us that they “will work with our suppliers to identify and shift to safer chemical alternatives as the program evolves.” Since Macy’s policy is under development, partial credit is awarded to recognize the statement by staff.

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Transparency: Demonstrates a commitment to transparency and public disclosure

2.5 out of 20 points

Macy’s 2018 Sustainability Report describes the company’s efforts to manage chemicals and notes that the program is being developed. Given the company’s transparency around its process, we awarded partial credit of 2.5 points. The company plans to develop an RSL and MRSL in the future (after 2021).

Macy’s does not appear to encourage or require suppliers to publicly disclose ingredients in products online or on product packaging going beyond regulatory compliance, including what is required by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration for cosmetics.

Glossary of Terms

Third-party Standards: Promotes credible third-party standards for safer products

3.75 out of 8.5 points

According to its 2018 Sustainability Report: by fall 2019, “all of Macy’s moderately priced sheets [representing a portion of its sheet offerings] will have been independently certified” as MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX, and in 2019, “Macy’s will begin offering selected Women’s and Men’s apparel” that are certified to STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX. According to the product listings on Macys.com, at least some of these are Macy’s private-label products. However, OEKO-TEX does not go far enough in restricting all PFAS or toxic flame retardants. Macys.com also sells 4 men’s dress shirts and Martha Stewart Collection sheets that were all created for Macy’s and certified to the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). GOTS also does not appear to go far enough in restricting all PFAS or toxic flame retardants.

Macy’s also advertises products certified to other credible third-party safer chemicals standards. This website sells a G-Star RAW denim jacket with aniline-free pre-reduced indigo technology that has a “Gold Level Material Health Certificate from the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute” and was created for Macy’s. The company also showcases “EWG Verified” products on its site and prominently features the certification stamp next to the products’ images. Additionally: for “earth month” in 2019, Macy’s transformed “The [email protected]’s” (where the company features specific brands at 12 different locations) and highlighted 4 “green” brands, one of which was Loli, the “world’s first sustainable + certified MADE SAFE organic beauty brand.”

Therefore, we have awarded partial credit for this category because Macy’s has gone above simply encouraging suppliers to get this certification but has not gotten the certification for an entire product category.

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